More Overland Scout Episodes

XOR - Xtreme Off-Road Builds

Parts Used In This Episode

Edwards Ironworkers
10 Ton Bender
Edwards Ironworkers
40 Ton Shop Press
Edwards Ironworkers
The Edwards 55 Ton JAWS Ironworker is well suited to fit the needs of any fab shop, large or small.
Lincoln Electric
Lincoln Electric is the official welding supplier to XOR
Matco Tools
Matco Tools are the official tool supplier of XOR
The Industrial Depot
Tools, Hardware, and Shop Supplies

Episode Transcript

(NARRATOR)>> TODAY ELIZA AND JEREMY ARE BUILDING ROCK SLIDERS FOR THEIR OVERLAND SCOUT. THEN THEY'RE ADDING A ROOF TOP TENT, AND THEY'RE GETTING IT ALL LIT UP FOR THE TRAIL. IT'S ALL RIGHT HERE ON XOR.

(ELIZA)>> HEY, WELCOME TO XOR. TODAY WE ARE BACK ON OUR OVERLAND SCOUT. WE WANT TO BE PREPARED FOR ANYTHING THE TRAIL CAN THROW AT US. SO SHOULD THE TRAIL GET ROCKY WE WANT TO HAVE ROCK SLIDERS. SO TODAY WE ARE BUILDING ROCK SLIDERS, AND A LITTLE BIT LATER WE WILL SHOW YOU HOW TO INSTALL A ROOF TOP TENT. NOW FOR OUR ROCK SLIDERS WE WILL BE UTILIZING OUR FRAME AS A MOUNTING POINT. WE NEED TO KEEP OUR SLIDERS AS CLOSE AS WE CAN TO OUR ROCKER PANEL FOR BEST PROTECTION, AND THEY'LL BE DUAL PURPOSE. NOT ONLY WILL THEY PROTECT OUR SCOUT, BUT THEY'LL ALSO BE A STEP BAR FOR ME.

ALL RIGHT, LOOKS LIKE 61 INCHES. NOW OUR ROCKER MEASURES 61 INCHES LONG, BUT THE SLIDER THAT WE ARE MAKING IS IN A HOOP SHAPE. SO WE'RE ADDING 14 INCHES TO ACCOUNT FOR THE BENDS.

[ saw cutting metal ]

(ELIZA)>> NOW I'M MARKING EACH END AT 12 INCHES. THAT IS WHERE THE BEND TOWARDS THE SCOUT'S ROCKER BEGINS. AS I SHOWED YOU, I'VE PADDED MY MEASUREMENT TO 14 INCHES SO WE COULD TRIM TO FIT IF NECESSARY.

BOTH ENDS WILL BE BENT TO 60 DEGREES, BUT YOU HAVE TO MAKE SURE THAT EACH BEND IS ON THE SAME PLANE. SO AFTER MARKING OFF 12 INCHES ON THE OTHER END, I'M USING A MAGNETIC ANGLE FINDER TO ENSURE THAT MY SECOND BEND IS PARALLEL TO MY FIRST.

INSIDE THE OUTER HOOP I'M ADDING AN INNER BAR. WE'LL CUT THIS TO 56 AND A HALF INCHES. [ saw cutting metal ]

(ELIZA)>> ALSO ONE INCH OF THIS MEASUREMENT ACCOUNTS FOR THE 45 DEGREE NOTCH THAT'LL BE CUT OUT OF EACH END.

OKAY, THAT 45 IS DONE, BUT WE'VE GOT TO DO A LITTLE BIT OF MEASURING TO MAKE SURE WE'RE ON THE SAME PLANE.

JUST LIKE WE DID WITH THE OUTER BAR, I'M USING MY ANGLE FINDER TO MAKE SURE MY NOTCH IS PARALLEL TO MY FIRST. ALL RIGHT, THERE WE GO. ON THE SAME PLANE NOW.

[ welder crackling ]

(ELIZA)>> WITH OUR ROCK SLIDERS MOCKED UP I CAN NOW MEASURE FOR MOUNTING POINTS, AND HERE'S WHAT I WAS THINKING FOR A STEP PLATE. NOT ONLY WILL DIMPLE DYES ADD STRENGTH, THEY WILL ALSO ADD A LITTLE BIT OF STYLE. OUR MOUNTING POINTS MEASURE 14 INCHES FROM THE SCOUT'S FRAME TO THE INNER BAR. ALL RIGHT, 14, THERE WE GO! [ saw cutting metal ]

(ELIZA)>> WE'RE USING THREE MOUNTING POINTS FOR OUR SLIDERS, AND NOTCHING THEM ALL TO 90 DEGREES. [ saw cutting metal ]

(ELIZA)>> WE'RE GOING TO BOLT OUR SLIDERS ON. SO I'M MAKING FOUR BY FOUR INCH MOUNTING PLATES OUT OF QUARTER INCH STEEL. THEN WE'LL PUNCH HALF INCH BOLT HOLES IN OUR PLATES WITH OUR EDWARDS IRON WORKER.

[ welder crackling ]

(ELIZA)>> FOR NOW WE'RE JUST GONNA TACK OUR SLIDERS TOGETHER BECAUSE FULLY WELDING THESE IS A LOT EASIER ON THE WELDING TABLE.

FOR MY STEP PLATES I AM USING A 40 INCH PIECE OF 16 GAUGE STEEL, AND I'M DRILLING ONE AND THREEEIGHTHS INCH HOLES FOR OUR TWO INCH DIMPLE DYE.

A DIMPLE DYE IS A TWO PIECE TOOL THAT SANDWICHES THE STEEL BETWEEN THE TOP AND BOTTOM HALVES TO CLEAR THE HOLE, STRENGTHENING THE STEP WITHOUT ADDING ANY WEIGHT.

YEAH!

(ELIZA)>> ONCE AGAIN, TO MATCH THE PLANE OF OUR STEP TO THE PLANE OF THE ROCKER I'M GOING TO USE MY TRUSTY ANGLE FINDER WHILE BENDING THE STEP IN OUR METAL BREAK. LET ME CHECK IT THERE.

WITH THE STEP IN PLACE I CAN FINALLY BURN IN OUR SLIDERS.

NICE!

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT, WE'LL GET OUR ROOF TOP TENT INSTALLED.

(JEREMY)>> THAT LOOKS COOL!

(NARRATOR)>> AND LATER WE'LL LIGHT UP THE NIGHT.

(ELIZA)>> HIT IT!

(JEREMY)>> WHEN OUTFITTING YOUR RIG FOR OVERLANDING YOU'RE GONNA WANT A PLACE TO SLEEP. SO ROOF TOP TEN SYSTEMS IS GONNA GET YOU THERE. YOU'RE ALSO GONNA NEED A WAY TO ATTACH YOUR TENT. SO PUTTING ON A CARGO RACK'S A GOOD IDEA. PLUS WHEN YOU'RE NOT USING YOUR TENT YOU CAN TAKE IT OFF AND IT GIVES YOU A TON MORE SPACE TO PUT YOUR STUFF. YOU'RE GONNA NEED A LADDER TO GET UP TO YOUR TENT, AND ON THOSE HOT SUMMER DAYS YOU'RE DEFINITELY GONNA WANT AN AWNING.

LET'S START WITH, I'M GONNA HAVE TO MAKE SOME BRACKETS THAT ARE ROUGHLY ABOUT TWO INCHES.

OUR BRACKETS ARE MADE FROM EIGHTH INCH PLATE STEEL, AND MARKED IN TWO FOLDING SECTIONS WITH 45 DEGREE CUTS, AND TWO HALF CIRCLES TO ACCOMMODATE WHERE IT MEETS THE ROLL CAGE.

FIRST WE'LL CUT OUT OUR TWO HALF CIRCLES WITH OUR PLASMA TORCH. THEN WE'LL MOVE ON TO OUR IRON WORKER AND TRIM OUR PIECES AND CUT OUR 45'S.

AND FINALLY WE'LL PUT OUR TWO 90 DEGREE BENDS IN TO FINISH OUR BRACKETS.

TWO INCHES. GOT TWO INCHES ALSO. [ welder crackling ]

(JEREMY)>> WE'LL MARK THE MOUNTING LOCATION ON OUR NEW BRACKETS USING THE ROOF RACK AS A TEMPLATE. [ drill spinning ]

(ELIZA)>> WITH OUR ROOF RACK BOLTED IN PLACE, WE DECIDED WE'D INSTALL OUR TENT.

(JEREMY)>> NOW HERE'S HOW THIS WORKS. THESE RAILS ARE GONNA BOLT DIRECTLY TO THE TOP OF OUR ROOF RACK USING THESE BRACKETS. WELL ELIZA, LET'S GET IT PUT UP THERE.

(ELIZA)>> COMING IN!

(JEREMY)>> THAT'S GOOD, RIGHT THERE.

FITS THE RACK PERFECTLY.

(ELIZA)>> WE'RE GOOD ON THIS SIDE.

(JEREMY)>> OUR TENT BOLTS DIRECTLY TO THE ROOF RACK WITH THE SUPPLIED RETAINERS THAT SLIDE DIRECTLY INTO THE CROSS BAR, AND ONCE IT'S ALL BOLTED DOWN WE'LL TRIM THE CROSS BAR TO FIT.

READY?

THERE IT IS.

(ELIZA)>> WOO!

(JEREMY)>> AND NOW THAT THE TENT IS SECURED WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND MOUNT THE AWNING. WE'RE GONNA USE A PIECE OF SQUARE TUBING TO MAKE SURE ALL THE HOLES STAY IN A STRAIGHT LINE.

WE'LL JUST SEE HOW THIS GOES ALONG THE SIDE.

AND THE COOL THING ABOUT THIS SETUP IS ALL OF THE HARDWARE IS SUPPLIED WITH THE AWNING.

THERE, THAT LOOKS COOL!

(ELIZA)>> LOOKS AWESOME!

(NARRATOR)>> WHEN WE COME BACK WE'LL SHOW YOU HOW WE MADE OUR OWN RADIATOR SHROUD, STAY TUNED!

(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR. NOW BEFORE WE COULD FIRE UP OUR SCOUT FOR THE VERY FIRST TIME WE NEEDED TO PUT A FAN ON THE RADIATOR. WELL WE WERE RUNNING INTO SOME CLEARANCE ISSUES AND COULDN'T JUST ORDER A FAN SHROUD. SO WITH A PIECE OF ALUMINUM LIKE THIS HERE'S HOW WE MADE OUR OWN. NOW WE CAN'T MOUNT OUR FAN SHROUD FLAT AGAINST THE RADIATOR BECAUSE THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE FAN ONTO THE FAN SHROUD WILL HIT THE FINS. SO WE NEED TO PUT A LITTLE OFFSET IN IT TO GET EVERYTHING RAISED UP.

THE FIRST 45 DEGREE BEND WE MAKE GIVES US THE CLEARANCE FOR THE MOUNTING BOLTS FOR OUR FAN. THE SECOND 45 JUST PUTS US BACK PARALLEL WITH THE RADIATOR ITSELF.

THERE'S NO BETTER TEMPLATE TO DECIDE WHERE TO MOUNT THE FAN THAN USING THE FAN ITSELF, AND A GOOD OLD PERMANENT MARKER.

THE FLANGES WE BENT INTO OUR SHROUD WILL MOUNT TO THE RADIATOR'S UPPER AND LOWER CORE EXTENSIONS. SO JUST LIKE WE USED THE FAN, THERE'S NO BETTER TEMPLATE THAN THE SHROUD ITSELF.

NOW OBVIOUSLY WE NEED TO CUT A BIG HOLE IN THE SHROUD. SO WE'RE GONNA FINISH TRACING THE LOCATION OF THE FAN FOR ITS MOUNTING BOLTS AND IT'S OUTER CIRCUMFERENCE.

WITH THE FAN DISASSEMBLED, WE'LL USE THE BLADE ASSEMBLY TO TRACE THE EXACT LOCATION OF OUR CUT. I'M USING THE THICKNESS OF THE PERMANENT MARKER TO ADD A LITTLE EXTRA WIDTH TO THE FAN. THAT WILL MAKE THE HOLE A LITTLE BIT BIGGER AND KEEP THE SPINNING BLADE FROM HITTING THE SHROUD.

WE'RE USING TWO BY FOURS TO MAKE A JIG TO RAISE THE SHROUD OFF THE BENCH FOR OUR CUT. THEN WE'LL MAKE A PILOT HOLE USING A REGULAR DRILL BIT. WHEN MAKING OUR CUT WE'RE USING AN AIR POWERED BODY SAW WITH A FINE TOOTH BLADE. [ saw buzzing ]

(JEREMY)>> THE OTHER PURPOSE OF OUR WOODEN JIG IS TO KEEP THE PIECE OF ALUMINUM FROM VIBRATING, GIVING US A CLEANER, EASIER CUT.

[ drill spinning ]

(JEREMY)>> WHEN BOLTING THE FAN TO THE SHROUD MAKE SURE TO USE NYLOCK NUTS TO KEEP THE FAN IN PLACE ON THE SHROUD FOR A LIFETIME.

WELL THERE YOU GO. ALL WE'VE GOT TO DO IS MOUNT THIS ON THE RADIATOR, GET IT ALL IN THE TRUCK, AND IT SHOULD STAY PRETTY COOL.

(NARRATOR)>> AFTER THE BREAK WE'LL LIGHT THINGS UP, STICK AROUND!

(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR. NOW AS OF RIGHT NOW THE ONLY TWO LIGHTS WE HAVE ON OUR SCOUT ARE OUR HEADLIGHTS, AND THAT'S JUST NOT GONNA CUT IT OUT ON THE TRAIL. SO TODAY WE'RE GONNA BE ADDING A BUNCH OF LIGHTS IN THE FRONT, AND SOME IN THE BACK, TO HELP WITH CAMPING. NOW MOUNTING OUR LIGHTS UP TOP IS GONNA BE PRETTY EASY. THEY'RE GONNA GO RIGHT ON THE BRACKETS ON OUR ROOF RACK, BUT HERE ON OUR CUSTOM BUMPER WE NEED TO MAKE A CUSTOM MOUNT, AND USING OUR TRUSTY OLD CARDBOARD, THIS IS WHAT WE CAME UP WITH. [ torch cutting metal ]

(JEREMY)>> JUST LIKE THE BRACKETS FOR THE ROOF RACK, THESE ARE EIGHTH INCH PLATE STEEL MARKED WITH TWO FOLDING SECTIONS WITH CUTOUTS TO FIT OUR BUMPER.

WE'RE GONNA MEASURE SO OUR LIGHTS FIT JUST INSIDE THE HEADLIGHTS THEMSELVES.

[ welder crackling ]

[ welder crackling ]

(JEREMY)>> EVEN THOUGH IT'S ON THE OUTSIDE FOR NOW, EVENTUALLY WE WILL RUN OUR WIRING HARNESS RIGHT THROUGH THE GRILL.

THERE'S ONE SET, AND THERE IS THE OTHER SET.

LIKE I SAID BEFORE, MOUNTING THE TOP LIGHTS IS PRETTY SIMPLE, BUT AS FAR AS THE HARNESS GOES WE'LL JUST ROUTE IT RIGHT DOWN ONE OF THE DOWN TUBES OF THE ROLL CAGE.

AND OUR TWO LIGHTS OUT BACK WILL WORK PERFECT FOR CAMPING, OR WHEN IT GETS A LITTLE DARK OUT ON THE TRAILS.

PERFECT!

HEY GUYS, I THOUGHT WE'D TAKE A COUPLE MINUTES TO HELP YOU GET THAT PERFECT SOLDERING JOINT. EITHER WHEN YOU'RE UNDER THE HOOD, UNDER THE DASH, OR UNDERNEATH YOU TRUCK, AND WHEN YOU NEED THAT EXTRA SET OF HANDS THE EASIEST THING TO DO IS MAKE THIS COOL LITTLE TOOL. SO WHAT YOU'LL NEED TO DO IS GO OUT AND GET TWO ALLIGATOR CLIPS, AND WHEN YOU RUN OUT OF WIRE IN YOUR WELDER AND HAVE TO PULL ALL THAT EXCESS WIRE OUT OF THE WIRE GUN, KEEP THAT CAUSE IT COMES IN QUITE HANDY, ESPECIALLY TO TIE THESE TWO GUYS TOGETHER. AND THE WAY THAT THIS WORKS IS EITHER YOU CAN PUT IT UNDERNEATH YOUR DASH TO HELP HOLD TWO WIRES TOGETHER, OR YOU CAN PUT IT IN THE VICE TO HELP HOLD THESE TWO WIRES TOGETHER. WHAT YOU WANT TO DO IS FRAY EACH WIRE'S END. PUSH THEM TOGETHER, GIVE THEM A TWIST. THIS IS THE MECHANICAL CONNECTION OF THE SPLICE, THE SOLDER IS JUST THERE TO KEEP THE TWO WIRES BONDED TOGETHER.

AND WHEN IT COMES TO SOLDERING WIRE, PICK THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB. THESE ARE USED TO SOLDER HEAVY GAUGE WIRE, AND WHAT WE'RE GONNA USE FOR OUR 16 GAUGE WIRE IS A BUTANE SOLDERING TORCH. THE FIRST THING YOU'RE GONNA WANNA DO FIRE YOUR TORCH UP TO GET THAT TIP NICE AND WARM.

ONCE IT'S LIT WE'RE GONNA GIVE IT A LITTLE BIT OF TIME TO GET THAT TEMP WARM SO WE CAN ACTUALLY CLEAN THE END OF IT OFF BEFORE WE EVEN START TINNING THE TIP. NOW THE FIRST THING WE'RE GONNA DO IS CLEAN THE TIP OFF WITH A NICE CLEAN RAG.

THEN WHEN THE TIP IS NICE AND WARM, PUT A LITTLE BIT OF SOLDER ON IT. THAT IS CALLED TINNING YOUR TIP. THEN FOR SOLDERING WIPE IT OFF ONE MORE TIME. NOW A LOT OF THE TIMES WHAT PEOPLE DO IS THEY PUT THE SOLDERING IRON ON TOP OF THE WIRE AND THEN TRY TO FEED SOLDER ONTO THE TIP OF THE SOLDERING IRON. NOW THE CORRECT WAY TO DO IT IS ACTUALLY PUT YOUR SOLDERING IRON ON THE BOTTOM. SO LET IT SIT THERE A BIT AND HEAT THE WIRE UP.

AND HERE WE GO! SET IT ON TOP AND LET IT PULL SOLDER ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE JOINT. AND ONE OF THE LAST THINGS YOU NEED TO DO IS PROTECT THE CONNECTION THAT YOU JUST MADE, AND IN OUR CASE, WE CAN SLIDE OUR HEAT SHRINK ON THIS END, BUT WHEN YOU'RE UNDERNEATH THE TRUCK OR YOUR CAR, DON'T FORGET TO PUT THIS ON FIRST. SO IT'S AS SIMPLE AS PUTTING IT ALL ON. WHEN IT'S NICE COOL AND JUST SHRINK IT DOWN.

(ELIZA)>> FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT WHAT YOU'VE SEEN ON TOADY'S SHOW VISIT US AT POWERNATON TV DOT COM, AND WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME. HIT IT!
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